Swimming Pool Equipment Maintenance Tips

clock June 29, 2016 09:30 by author medallionpools |

Here are just a couple of quick equipment maintenance tips to help keep things running smoothly. Be sure to read your equipment manuals and follow the manufacturers’ recommendations.

If you have a Sand or DE filter you probably have a Multi-Port Value that either attaches to the top of your filter or is mounted on the side of your filter. The handle you push down when you want to change a function has a spring under it which you can’t see. It is a good idea once or twice during the pool season, turn your pump off, push the handle down and spray some type of lubricant under the handle to keep the spring lubricated.

The pump has a lid that has an o-ring either that mounts on the lid or has a grove in the pump it mounts to. This o-ring needs to be lubricated with o-ring lube to help it seal better and make it easier for you to remove the pump lid to clean the strainer basket. If the o-ring does not seal properly, your pump may not prime or the strainer basket may not fill up completely with water. You will notice a lot of air bubbles.

On the pump you also have drain plugs. Most of these drain plugs have a small o-ring. If this o-ring is missing or broken, a lot of air will get into your filtration system and the pump may have a hard time priming or the strainer basket may not fill up with water. Make sure the o-ring is in place. You can wrap a small amount of Teflon tape around the threads and cover that with o-ring lube.

If you have an Automatic Chlorinator, this unit has an o-ring. This o-ring is either mounted in the top of the lid or on the chlorinator itself. This o-ring will wear out and become brittle and may have some small breaks in it. This could cause air leaks. Replace if needed and cover with o-ring lube.



How To Backwash Your Sand Filter

clock June 23, 2016 07:00 by author medallionpools |

These instructions are for a standard sand filter with a multiport valve. Please see your owner’s manual to verify the proper backwashing/cleaning procedure for your particular filter.

It is important to remember that you only need to backwash if the pressure gauge is reading too high or the flow of water from your return into the pool has slowed. While you are backwashing you will need to watch the level of the water to make sure it does not go below the bottom of the skimmer. Re-fill the pool if necessary. If you backwash too much, you will need to chemically re-treat the water. Follow these simple steps to backwash your filter:

1. Turn off the pump.

2. Attach a hose to the backwash port.

3. Clean the skimmer basket.

4. Turn the filter handle to the “backwash” setting (make sure you roll out the backwash hose).

5. Turn the pump on.

6. Let the pump run until the water in the sight glass on the filter is clear. Your water should start clear, then become dirty, then become clear again. This process should take approximately 1 to 1.5 minutes on average.

7. Turn off the pump and set the filter handle to the “rinse” setting then turn on the pump for 20 seconds or until the water coming out is clear.

8. Turn off the pump and return the filter handle to the “filter” setting.

9. Turn on the pump and resume normal use of the pool. The reading on your pressure gauge is now showing the normal reading for your pool.



Factors Affecting Quality Of Pool Water

clock June 21, 2016 09:00 by author medallionpools |

Here is a list and short descriptions of factors that can affect the quality of your pool water. Please note that all of the information below is generic and will not apply exactly the same way to all pools. Be sure to discuss any questions or concerns with your local pool professional.

BATHING LOAD- The more people that use your pool, the more disinfectant that you will need to control Algae and to properly sanitize your pool.

SUNLIGHT- The warmer the weather, the faster you will lose the residual disinfectant needed in the pool to control bacteria. You can make the residual last longer by maintaining the proper stabilizer level.

WATER TEMPERATURE- most pool chemicals will not last as long in your pool as the water gets warmer. The acceleration is even greater when the water temperature gets above 85 degrees.

WIND & RAIN- When you experience periods of wind & rain, these conditions will carry dust, bacteria and even algae spores into your pool. These items will overwork your current chemicals reducing their ability to properly sanitize your pool.

PH- When the PH level of your water rises, the ability of your pool water to disinfect bacteria will decrease. You need to maintain the PH level in the 7.2-7.6 range.

TOTAL ALKALINITY- When Alkalinity level is below 80 PPM, this will affect the PH level and could cause staining in a plaster pool or result in possible algae growth. When the alkalinity level is too high, above 130 PPM, this could cause cloudy water and scaling.



Why Is My Chlorine Reading Always Low In My Pool

clock June 16, 2016 07:00 by author medallionpools |

For those of you who occasionally have this problem, here are a few possible reasons. Please remember that this information is generic. Your pool may have different requirements. See your Medallion pool dealer if you have any questions.

The sun will cause Chlorine levels to quickly dissipate if you do not have the proper level of Stabilizer. The proper amount of Stabilizer in your pool water will extend the life of your Chlorine. Cyanuric Acid is the chemical used as a swimming pool stabilizer.

The proper range of Stabilizer using chlorine as the sanitizer, should be in a range of 30-60 PPM (parts per million). For the customers that use Granular Chlorine, that product has no stabilizer built into it. You need to use Cyanuric Acid on a regular basis to extend the life of your chlorine. If you add granular chlorine to your pool in the morning and get a chlorine reading, that reading could be zero in the afternoon due to low stabilizer level.

For customers that use Chlorine tablets, stabilizer is built into the tablet and Cyanuric Acid may not be needed as often. The problem is when a chlorine floater is used and 3” chlorine tablets are placed in the floater, the pool may not be getting enough chlorine or stabilizer because these tablets do not dissolve quickly enough. This will result in algae and almost a zero stabilizer reading.

Using an Automatic Chlorinator with the chlorine tablets inside, will give you a better choice of your pool receiving the proper chlorine level and the proper stabilizer level. It is very important to get your pool water checked on a regular basis for the proper reading of stabilizer.

If you are using a Chlorine Generator (Salt System) the stabilizer level is extremely important. Most Chlorine Generators produce Chlorine at a steady pace without the high and low level spikes you get when using granular. Without the proper Stabilizer level to protect this Chlorine from the sunlight you could be losing it nearly as fast as it is being produced.



Zinc Anode

clock June 14, 2016 07:00 by author medallionpools |

The in-line zinc anode is attached to the bonding wire, thereby protecting all metal parts (heaters, lights, rails, etc.) from galvanic corrosion. Zinc anodes will sacrifice themselves and corrode before all other metals in the pool. Zinc anodes need to be replaced approximately every 4-5 years on average.  Many factors can affect how quickly it will need to be replaced.  We have encountered some pools where the zinc anode had to be replaced every year.

Any time you have different metals (copper, stainless steel, etc.) in a salt water pool, you create a battery. Some amount of current flows between the metals. The electrons that make up the current are supplied by one of the metals, giving up bits of itself in the form of metal ions to the pool water. This is called galvanic corrosion. Galvanic corrosion causes plaster discoloration and metal erosion. The best way to inhibit the effect of galvanic corrosion is to use a zinc anode. Zinc is a metal that gives up its metal ions faster than other metals in the pool. In other words, the zinc anode will erode instead of other metals (pool light, rails, heater, light niche, ladder, etc.). The zinc ions will not discolor the pool plaster. The zinc anode should be replaced after half of it has eroded.

Galvanic corrosion can also occur pools that do not use salt water. Any stray electrical current around the pool area can cause it. Also, many localities are now requiring that the pool water be bonded. The inline zinc anode also performs this function.

This article is courtesy of the Pool Tool Company (www.pooltool.com). Here is a link to their zinc anode brochure (http://pooltool.com/images/catalog/brochurePrint.zip )