Chlorine for swimming pools is still one of the most commonly used disinfectants in a swimming pool. Several types of Chlorine Compounds are available.

Unstabilized Chlorine

• Calcium Hypochlorite – granular and will not dissolve completely in water.
• Will tend to leave residue in the bottom of your pool.
• This chemical will most likely need to be put into your pool every day.
• Stabilizer will also have to be added to extend the life of your chlorine.
• Is usually available in sizes ranging from 1lb bags to 100lb drums.

Stabilized Chlorine

• Tri-Chlor – This is the solid form of chlorine and could be either chlorine tablets (3″ or 1″), or chlorine sticks.
• Di-Chlor – This is in granular form and is slow dissolving.
• This product line has stabilizer built into it.
• If you use a floater with chlorine tablets, you may need to add some stabilizer as well as with granular chlorine because the tablets will not dissolve quickly enough.

Chlorine is susceptible to rapid decomposition from the sun’s ultra-violet rays. In order to improve the effectiveness of chlorine and reduce its loss, the stabilizer or Cyanuric Acid level will need to be maintained above 40 PPM. The Free Chlorine level of your pool water is what is the most important. That level should be maintained between 1.0-2.0 PPM. Your pool could have a chlorine reading and still have algae because the Free Chlorine level is too low.

If your pool’s pH is too high then the Chlorine you do have in your pool will not work as effectively as it should. If your pH is too low, your Chlorine will work better, but once you are below 7.2 it will become uncomfortable for most swimmers and as it gets lower it will cause damage to your pool surface (whether it is vinyl or concrete) and your pool equipment.